Choosing Fabric
The short answer
Six favourites for bespoke trousers: VBC 4-Ply, VBC 21 Micron Covert, Cerruti Hollywood, Cerruti Travelissimo, Spence Bryson Irish Linen and Stylbiella Cotton Life.
If you’re a trouser connoisseur, you know that the fabric is half the game.
The right fabric gives you that beautiful fall, clean line and movement that makes trousers look fantastic in photographs.
Here are some of my favourites.
VBC 4-Ply
420g
VBC 4-Ply is the perfect balance. The four-ply construction gives it excellent resilience, crease resistance and a beautiful drape.
Despite its 420g weight, the open weave makes it surprisingly breathable.
It is also a favourite among serious trouser makers. I met Salvatore Ambrosi personally, and he told me that VBC 4-Ply is one of his favourite fabrics to work with.
VBC 21 Micron Covert
440g
A very strong, hard-wearing fabric with a distinctive rustic appearance. The marled depth gives it plenty of visual interest, while the steep diagonal twill gives the surface a beautiful richness.
It has plenty of body and presence, with excellent drape.
Cerruti Hollywood
290–300g
A two-ply twill with a smooth hand. At 290–300g, it has enough body to give trousers a beautiful drape while remaining comfortable and easy to wear.
It also has excellent crease resistance, making it particularly well suited to trousers.
The subtle contrast between the warp and weft gives the fabric a dynamic, modern look.
Cerruti Travelissimo
310g
A high-twist performance fabric with excellent resilience and crease resistance.
It is particularly well suited to trousers, combining a clean appearance with the ability to withstand movement and travel.
Spence Bryson Irish Linen
370–500g
For linen trousers, Spence Bryson is a name worth knowing.
The best-selling quality is Tropical. It has wonderful weight and drape, and it is one of those fabrics that becomes more beautiful with wear.
You also get that signature Irish linen crease — the relaxed, natural creasing that gives linen trousers their character and looks particularly good in photographs.
Stylbiella Cotton Life
280–430g
For cotton and cotton-linen trousers, Stylbiella Cotton Life is a world-class option at an excellent price.
The collection focuses on beautiful plain colours, with cotton that is exceptionally smooth and has a silky touch. The drape is excellent, with a clean, natural fall that makes a great pair of trousers.
Compare at a glance
| FABRIC | BRAND | COMPOSITION | WEIGHT |
|---|---|---|---|
| VBC 4-Ply | Vitale Barberis Canonico | 100% Wool | 420g |
| VBC 21 Micron Covert | Vitale Barberis Canonico | 100% Wool | 440g |
| Cerruti Hollywood | Lanificio Cerruti | 100% Wool | 290–300g |
| Cerruti Travelissimo | Lanificio Cerruti | 100% Wool | 310g |
| Spence Bryson Irish Linen | Spence Bryson | 100% Irish Linen | 370–500g |
| Stylbiella Cotton Life | Stylbiella | Cotton / Cotton-Linen | 280–430g |